The white-washed homes and cottages of Coverack, tumble down from the surrounding hills as if drawn by the promise of the beach and the irresistibly pleasing sight of fishing boats bobbing on the water. Resisting the pull, are two farms on the edge of the village, both owned by members of an old-school Cornish family, the Roskillys. The north-east hillside is home to their ice cream farm and the organic dairy herd that supplies it. The south-west hillside is home to Coverack Camping, with a pleasant footpath connecting the two.
Caravans and campers have been making their way to Coverack Camping at Penmarth Farm for half a century, attracted by the valley views and sea glimpses the place provides. Established by Ben and Georgia Roskilly, it’s now being run by the next generation; nephew Jake and his partner Annette. There are plans to introduce Keltic and Bell Tents - pre erected tents on a decked area for the 2022 season, comfortable camping (work in progress), but for now, the modernisation has been subtle and it remains a fairly traditional place. The few static caravans of yesteryear and the slightly creaky toilet block may be gone but it remains a back-to-basics site with simple facilities. New compost loos, refurbished solar thermal shower with electric backup and a washing up area about the size of it; everything you need and nothing you don’t.
Pitches are pre-allocated and set across a number of hedged paddocks either side of a track which gives access for small campervans, small caravans, and tents. There are four grass pitches where electric hook-up is possible. The rest, 5 pitches for small caravans and 30 for tents, are grassy and off grid. For tent campers, the established access route means it’s perfect for those who like the convenience of parking next to pitch.
The real glory of this place is that it’s the closest campsite to the village (apart from a few pitches in the YHA garden). It’s a five-minute walk on footpaths to the sand and shingle beach that low tide reveals at Coverack and to its little harbour. The village has all the basics; a shop, fish and chips and somewhere to hire kayaks and paddleboards. You can walk from here on the South West Coast Path or drive 30 minutes to the UK’s most southerly spot at spectacular Lizard Point. And, don’t forget, for a taste of Roskillys organic ice cream you only have to hike over to the next hill. It’s a couple of miles from the campsite and a visit also offers a look round the farm. Cows, countryside, coast and ice cream... the staples of a holiday in Cornwall are here in spades – or should that be scoops?