68 Degrees West

It’s easy to see why an Iron Age clan chose to build a fort on top of Pen-Y-Crug. The hill, known locally as ‘The Crug’ (pronounced creeg) is a superb vantage point, with breath-taking views across the Brecon Beacons, as well as local hills to the north and a good 10 miles or more of the River Usk sparkling between the trees below. It’s an enjoyable mile-and-a-half walk to the summit from the best local campsite, which is found roughly to the west of the hill – though we can’t actually verify by how many degrees. Next time we’ll take a compass.

Set almost precisely on the boundary of the Brecon Beacons National Park, 68 Degrees West is a camping and glamping site with views to boast of its own. Guests wake up to a sunrise over the Black Mountains, whose crinkled tops outline the horizon, before hopping through dewy grass to the newly built wash-block (super clean interiors and facilities for the disabled). On one side, the campsite is neighbour to renowned Cradoc Golf Club – you can watch people pinging balls across the driving range a few hundred metres away – while in the other directions it’s the rolling, sheep-dotted meadows that could only be Wales. For easy access to the national park and a quiet, secluded setting, it’s a tough spot to beat.

The campsite itself has been here since the ‘80s but it’s only recently that it’s been given a breath of fresh air with the new facilities block and a pair of beautiful timber pods. The structures – fitted with double-glazed doors to enjoy the view, a wood-burning stove for heating and a compact kitchenette for cooking – each sleep a family of four comfortably, while, in the meadow beyond, there is room for around 10 tents and a handful of campervans or caravans.

Hidden behind the hump of the Crug is Brecon town, three miles away. It’s a pleasant walk or a 10-minute drive and home to a host of good pubs and cafés. It’s also a good place to get your bearings before heading into the heart of the National Park, with mighty Pen y Fan to the south standing out to any keen hikers. Mountain biking and horse riding are extremely popular in the area, too, while fly fishing, for those with permits, in the River Usk is some of the best in Europe.